Honeymoon with the Buffalo

Adam Rose / 12.05.2017

The freshness of the air is the first thing that hits you. Right on exiting the plane, the crisp, clean, sea-salt-tangy, unpolluted goodness. Then the white light of the African sun, and the smell of baking tarmac, and the friendly “howzit!”

Waxing a little too lyrical? Well, for this reporter, having been absent from his homeland for over eight years, a reminder of what draws people to the mother continent, and especially racers to Expedition Africa. This race has a special place in the heart of many teams, and its reputation has grown over its six years, for slick organisation, enthusiastic volunteers, a varied course, and most of all, a warm welcome.

At many races, pre-race preparations happen in sports halls or community centres, away from the eyes of the public, with only athletes and staff in attendance. This is different. By basing the HQ in the heart of an existing community and working with them, Expedition Africa puts their event front and centre with the locals, drawing in spectators from the unlikeliest of sources - room service dotwatchers?

The race reception and opening ceremony kicked off Friday in fine style. Teams braaiing while prepping bike boxes; a hubbub of racers registering outside the Joe Fish café of the Cape St Francis Resort, next to the pool; the tinpan drumming lending a festive air to the energy already sparking between the teams. Some dressed in their matching gear, others more chilled in nondescript t-shirts and shorts, but all watchful, observant, while feigning a lack of concern.

At 14:00, everyone crammed into the resort’s meeting hall – teams, race staff, hotel staff, volunteers, the local major, dignitaries and assorted media. And children. That was a new one. I can’t remember attending a race briefing with preteens staring wide-eyed at the screen, hanging on to their parents, as the presentations unfolded in front of them; a good sign.

Heidi and Stephan ran through the briefings, supported by much vocal enthusiasm, especially for the emotional rendition of Shosholoza by the hotel staff. More than one person mentioned how the hair stood up on their arms as they listened.

A few points to mention. First, maps 5 and 6 were handed out today as they show the Big Baviaans Trek, with maps 1 to 4 following tomorrow. The Baviaans reserve is particularly sensitive, especially for the health of the teams if they encounter the local wildlife. Buffalo, to be exact.

Each team is issued an air horn. They are to be used on stage 6, between CPs 17 and 21, where buffalo are plentiful. They are not primarily to scare the buffalo. No, they are to warn OTHER teams that you have seen buffalo and therefore need to be wary. The air horns have questionable influence on the buffalo themselves, seeing as buffalo are pretty much unafraid of anything.

Stephan’s advice was
1) see the buffalo before they see you – no staring at the ground as you trek
2) keep to open areas – no following twisty, winding bush paths
3) keep the wind at your front, not your back – otherwise they are forewarned
4) if you get chased, run to the side, not away from the buffalo, because they’re always faster
5) the lone buffalo males are angry BEFORE they meet you. Be very careful.

He wasn’t trying to scare the teams so much as keep them vigilant. Buffaloes aren’t known for a sense of humour.

The medical team mentioned to me that further concerns would be the risk of dehydration, hypothermia (due to the constant wind, combined with water crossings) and dangerous snakes like the puffadder, which also has a bad temper, and won’t move out of your path but instead prefers to attack. Nice.

Also: CPs are not preplotted but have to be copied off a master map. As the race progresses, maps will be issued at TA6, TA7, TA10 and TA11 (there are 12 in all). When you combine this task with exhaustion, there is great potential for creative navigation later in the race.

An unusual feature is the option to prebook a bike service for TA10. Teams that do this will have their bikes preassembled for their arrival, the others must do this themselves. There is no obligation, but it does help benefit the local community.

Finally, one team features a couple doing their first expedition race, who are still on their honeymoon: Tim Deane & Didi Francis of Fantastic4 (#13). They received a bottle of champagne, and the advice that it was a good recipe for a healthy marriage – Heidi and Stephan did the exact same thing on their honeymoon!

The race begins Sunday morning early, with a short running stage, east along the coast to Port St Francis, where teams jump on to kayaks for a sea paddling section to the Krom river mouth. This is weather permitting – if the surf is too dangerous, an alternative trek to the mouth will take place instead. The river mouth itself has a tricky tidal flow, and only experienced paddlers should attempt it. The RD doesn’t recommend it, but we might find teams try to save time by paddling instead of portaging, which could lead to a wet upset.

Follow the action in realtime at www.expafrica.live from Sunday morning, but you can already find plenty of information about the race and the teams. Leave them a message of encouragement while they still have the time to read!

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